The tour begins at the Alter Kran (Old Crane, pictured above). This crane and others like it (though not standing today) were used during Lüneburg's salt-trading and -shipping days. The Alter Kran is located in the Wasserviertel (Water District), also home to old mills and my apartment (I can see the crane from my bathroom window!).
The next stop is the Roter Hahn (both above), once a medieval "old-folks' home" (says Mr. Steinbicker) and now private residences. Just around the corner is the St. Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas' Church, pictured below). This Gothic basilica, consecrated in 1409, is renowned for its star-vaulted ceiling. The altar, built circa 1440, depicts the life and passion of Jesus (the picture is a little blurry; flash photography wasn't allowed). The altar is closed during Holy Week, and reopened on Easter Sunday.
A short walk down the cobblestone street is Lüneburg's Rathaus (city hall) and the Marktplatz (market square). The square is home to the town farmers' market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, as well as other social and political gatherings. The Rathaus is actually not one building but a complex of several, built between the 13th and 18th centuries. I will be touring the Rathaus with USAC and other Leuphana Universität exchange programs later this week!
Our tour then takes through the Altstadt (old city) to the Michaeliskirche (St. Michael's Church, pictured below). Originally built as a monastery circa 1400, the church hosted a young Johann Sebastian Bach in its choir in the early 1700s. Many of the church artifacts and valuables have been robbed over the years, but the pulpit, built in 1602, still remains.
Daytrips Germany mentions the Kalkberg (literally, "chalk hill") as a "pleasant side trip." I contend that the walk to, and especially the view of the town from, the top make the Kalkberg a must-see stop for any visitor to Lüneburg. The hill is a outcropping of the salt vein from which Lüneburg prospered, and is now a lovely nature park. On a clear day like today, you can see almost all of the city from the top.
After a nice walk through more of the Altstadt, our tour brings us to Heiligengieststraße (Holy Ghost Street), home to some of the best restaurants in town, as well as the Brauerimuseum (brewery museum). For a small fee, you can walk through the four-story museum housing the equipment from the Kronen Brewing company (which opened in 1485!). The museum exhibits also explain the brewing, bottling, distribution process, and how it changed over the centuries. It was most definitely a worthwhile stop, and the curator on duty complimented my German, too!
A stroll across Am Sande, Lüneburg's central square, brings us to our final stop, the St. Johannis-Kirche (St. John's Church). From the outside, its almost instantly striking that the steeple is slightly skewed. The story goes that the church's architect, discovering this flaw, climbed the steeple and jumped from it. Cruel irony won the day, as he landed in a hay wagon and survived the fall. Inside, St. Johannis is home to a very ornate altar and organ. I was fortunate to visit while a small wind ensemble and choir was giving an afternoon concert! I hope to attend an organ concert or two there in the coming weeks.
Well, I hope you enjoyed your pictorial day trip though Lüneburg! It's truly amazing to realize how much really cool history is literally just around the corner. The more I learn about this city, the more I appreciate what a special place it is to call home.
Ausgezeichnet!
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