Yesterday, my student ID took me to Lübeck. Just over an hour north of Lüneburg by train, Lübeck was the capital of the Hanseatic League, and people still flock there today to see the sights left behind by its medieval wealth.
I'm noticing more and more, both on the trains to Osnabrück and to Lübeck, how much the north-Germany countryside looks like the Midwest. We passed cornfields nestled among the forests, saw pastures in which horses and cows (Holsteins of course; Lübeck is in Schleswig-Holstein, the state to the north), and even deer stands! It's no wonder so many immigrants settled in Wisconsin and the surrounding Midwest states.
I arrived in Lübeck just as the sun was rising over the skyline, which was really pretty to see. Unfortunately, it was about an hour before any businesses/attractions opened. I spent some time meandering through the streets and getting a feel for the town. Lübeck, at least as much as I saw, has a great balance of modern shopping and convenience and history. Known as the "City of Short Distances," Lübeck is really easy to explore on foot.
No one can visit Lübeck without seeing the Holstentor, the magnificent gate from the former city wall. Now home a museum documenting Lübeck's history, the Holstentor was build between 1464-1478. It stands on the path from the train station to the city center, and welcomes many tourists each day.
My daytrip route then brought me to the Petrikirche (St. Peter's Church). While the sanctuary is quite spartan, the view from the Aussichtstürm (observation tower) in its steeple is gorgeous.
I then visited Lübeck's Rathaus (city hall), constructed over many years beginning in 1250. The Arcade, dating from the 15th Century, features large holes in the facade to reduce the structure's wind resistance.
Behind the Rathaus concept is the beautiful Marienkirche (St. Mary's Church). Many other churches in the Baltic region are based on this Brick Gothic basilica. As I paid my entrance fee, the attendant offered me a guide pamphlet in German. She was surprised when I asked for one in English, because she said my spoken German was so good!
During World War II, the Marienkirche was heavily damaged in a British air raid the night before Palm Sunday 1942. In the destruction, the church bells fell from the steeple and embedded themselves in the floor. Though the church has been restored, the broken bells still lie where they fell that night, as a powerful memorial to the casualties of the Second World War.
The Marienkirche is adorned with many ornate, but macabre, works. The sanctuary is surrounded by many skulls and skeletons, and the Grim Reaper even appears in a stained-glass window. As if in answer to my unspoken "Why would you put all this in such a beautiful church?" the back of the pamphlet carries these words:
A moment of silence
despite the noise around you.
Above you, high as the sky, the vault
is drawing you upwards.
Let your eyes wander and rest on the cross,
which tells not only of the sufferings of the One,
but also of your own life's limitations.
Do not be afraid!
Light is breaking through
lighting up images of doubt and sorry,
shining into the depths of your heart.
This hope overcomes death.
The rising of the sun brings us new light every morning; the rising of the Son brings us new hope every day.
Before returning to the train station, I visited the St.-Aegidien-Kirche (St. Gille's Church) and the Dom (Cathedral, pictured below).
My route back took me along one branch of the river that surrounds Lübeck, and past storehouses that were once filled with Lüneburg salt, and are now modern shops and restaurants.
My day didn't end at the train station, though. I met with friends and took the bus to the beach at Travemünde, about 40 minutes away. We spent the rest of the afternoon just relaxing at the Baltic Sea. The beach was popular, because the weather was so nice, but not overly crowded. Many people were flying kites, watching sailboats or people, or just enjoying the sunshine. I swam in salt water for the first time (!), but only for a short time. The Baltic Sea is both cold and home to jellyfish, so I didn't stay in the water too long.
After a lovely afternoon at the beach, we took the train back to Lüneburg, amusing ourselves with half-remembered card games for most of the trip. I don't think I can describe how amazing the sunset was over the Elbe River. Dinner was Krosse Bratkartoffeln (Crisp Baked Potatoes) topped with bacon and three fried eggs at Krone, a great way to end a great day in northern Germany. The best part is there is still more of Lübeck to discover!
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